The calm waters of the Tagus were interrupted by the wash of the ferry, over which gangs of water-skiers appeared like pirates, leeching their entertainment off of every passing vessel. Several perfectly bronzed men with six-pack stomachs and big muscles leapt across the ripples and tried desperately to impress everybody on board our craft. The passengers stood silently watching and bottling up their emotions for the inevitable moment when one show-off got a bit carried away, mis-judging his jump and flying upside down through the air before being dumped into the water. There were smirks to be heard all around. Barreiro - Faro The station at Barreiro was another unspectacular affair but it was very busy, and I ensured I was first through the crowds to reach the ticket office, the holy grail of my morning's drudgery. After all my rejections and redirections to this place from elsewhere, I expected it to be bedecked in gold. The reality was a shabby little place with a chubby, sweaty man behind the counter, whose shirt had almost wholly turned to liquid form, although he was excused from his condition in consideration of the soaring temperature in the stuffy office. I made my reservation, and when the train arrived a few minutes later there was not a spare unreserved seat on board, so I considered myself lucky to have secured a place. I didn't feel quite so lucky when the train trundled through the scorched countryside of the Algarve at reduced speed for several hours, whilst I sat by the window on the sunny side baking like a stew in a slow cooker. The landscape of low undulating hills began as the home to varied agriculture, but towards the south this gave way almost exclusively to endless rows of citrus groves. There were very few urban developments, just rustic villages and small farms which often had a trusty Renault 4 sitting in the yard. Many passengers disembarked at the towns of Tunes and Albufeira, with the remainder continuing to journey's end at the resort of Faro. We were forty minutes behind schedule when the train pulled into the station, but the connecting service was still waiting for us on the adjacent platform. How kind. Faro - Vila Real de Santo António The remaining part of my day's travels would cover a relatively short distance along the southern coast of the country, but it seemed to take forever. If the previous train had crawled like a tortoise I was now on board a mechanical snail, although life inside the shell wasn't as homely. A group of teenagers occupying the carriage were clearly high on something more potent than drink or smoke, and they aggressively taunted many passengers whilst acting like buffoons. They steered clear of me, probably because I had chosen this bright day to don my shorts, exposing my white stick legs which would be cause for anybody to leave me well alone. The sun was setting as the sleepy town of Vila Real de Santo António finally appeared, and I negotiated the grid maze of streets in search of the hostel. I was immediately made aware by the staff that I could only stay for one night, because the place was fully booked up for the following day. This seemed unlikely when I looked around and found just one other guest inside the building, so whether they had received a group booking or the receptionist had just eyed my legs I wasn't sure. Certainly I wasn't having much luck with people I met today, confirmed when a beautiful Dutch girl who I encountered in the dining room invited me to share her bottle of wine. Despite my assurances that I would return in a few minutes to join her, she had disappeared without trace when I got back. It surely couldn't have been the swinging atmosphere elsewhere in the building which had diverted her, since the place was completely vacant, and I sat alone on the small, pleasant patio in the centre of the hostel reading a book for the rest of the evening. It had been a long day which had dragged by, and I had done little except travel to my next destination. I never enjoyed such times when the only achievement of the day was to get from A to B, and I was determined to relax and take it easy tomorrow, only hampered by the knowledge that I would have to move on and find another place to stay. HOSTEL REPORT: Pousada
de Juventude, Rua Dr. Sousa Martins, 40, 8900 Vila Real de Santo António |