Returning from the apartments and through the Rubens Room, I decided to squeeze one last section of the museum into the day's schedule. There were so many miles of corridors in the Louvre, absolutely jam-packed with paintings, sculptures and artefacts, that it was simply impossible to absorb it all in a day, or even a week. One novel feature that required investigation though, was the Medieval Louvre, buried underground beneath the square on the east side, and only excavated in the previous couple of decades. It was possible to walk around the circumference of the old castle walls, and to see the plans for the site, upon which was built the palace that stood today. By the time I emerged in late afternoon from the pyramid, the sun was beating down and thousands of tourists were gathered around the fountains which had been devoid of souls when I entered. After this, I had practically explored more museums than I could cope with for the whole trip. And the hectic hustle and bustle of the big city was starting to grate on me a little, as I looked forward to tomorrow when I would escape and head south. My next short journey was across the capital to reserve a seat on a train for the following day, and it provided some interesting features at either end. The Louvre Metro station contained some artefacts from the museum above, placed in cabinets along the platforms. It was surely quite a bizarre site when expecting to arrive at another standard stop on a grimy subway line, for passengers to gaze out of the window and be confronted with a Roman bust staring back at them. Meanwhile, alighting at Montparnasse rail station involved riding on the longest single travelator I had ever seen. I half expected to find myself at London Waterloo when I reached the other end. Had I been half my age I wouldn't have hesitated to step on the one going in the opposite direction, attempting to run the length of it faster than the machine took me back. With my ticket sorted, I stopped for a breather in the Jardin d'Atlantique, a park which was perched peculiarly above the railway tracks behind Montparnasse station, and surrounded on all sides by corporate buildings. Little was happening here and the place was emptying as the sun began crouching nervously behind office blocks, leaving happy families and their dogs in the shade. There was time remaining to take in one more feature of the city before the weekend drew to a close, so I made another journey westwards on the Metro towards the country's biggest status symbol. Paris (Eiffel Tower)
Perhaps my most satisfying moment of the day was yet to come, and it would arise from a surprise incident - a shouting match with an American halfway up the tower. When I finally reached level 2 and the last of the steps, I found that it contained two tiers. Naturally, since this was as far as lift-shunning skinflints were allowed to go, I wanted to be at the highest point possible, so I ascended the extra few stairs to the upper platform. It was very busy up there though, with people shuffling around the outer edges and making it difficult to get past. I absorbed the views on the north and east sides, then headed around to the south. The central section was taped off forbidding me from cutting across the middle, and I gradually squeezed my way past each person, occasionally observing some rather hostile stares aimed at me. I spotted a break in the crowd ahead and made a beeline
for the gap, but all of a sudden a large fist met me in the opposite
direction, and an enormous woman pushed me back with the force of several
digested hamburgers. In the short time since leaving home I had encountered people of many nationalities, particularly in the cosmopolitan surroundings of Paris. But it was surprising to note so many American tourists, the only reason being the current political climate in which the US government and media were pitting themselves against France following the conflict in Iraq, and suggesting to their citizens that they boycott French goods and services. Of course this didn't mean that all Americans were going to dutifully abide by these dictates, and they may not all have shared such sentiments. The British government had also backed the Iraq invasion, although us Brits were much more divided over the issue and less likely to immediately take daggers to our near neighbours the French, since this was something our media did for us on a regular basis regardless of world affairs, whether we liked it or not. I just thought that it may have had some impact on the numbers of US visitors in the country, and I didn't expect to notice Americans wherever I went. And thus the problem; I shouldn't have needed to, but there were a certain minority who continually probed and penetrated the protective peace bubble that I liked to imagine I deserved, and which surrounded me in my daily life. I had nothing against Americans in general, and some of my fellow Brits were undoubtedly responsible for forming part of the loud-mouth brigade. I certainly had some fundamental misgivings about the Bush and Blair governments and their foreign policies, but I couldn't hold that against the entire population of the two countries, especially since I belonged to one. There were some who couldn't be forgiven though, their overbearing voices had been taunting me from all directions, forcing me to listen to spiels of nonsense which leapt like wild bison from their tongues. They tarred the image of their countries' citizens for the rest of us who cringed in their company. Indeed, many other travellers I met were all too familiar with - and desperate to distance themselves from - these less appealing members of their own societies, and the Canadians were noticeably determined to display the maple-leaf emblem on their baggage and about their person in order to distinguish themselves. Whilst standing outside the Sacré-Coeur the previous day, I gasped as I overheard two American ladies nattering at a volume that would have bothered deceased Parisians in the crypt below. They were discussing the location of Notre-Dame, or rather the surprise new location of this spectacular landmark as decided by them. What anybody else could see to be a regular church positioned a mile away was, to this pair, without doubt the 'cute liddle Notre-Dame'. Which would have been fine if they'd wanted to keep that misguided opinion to themselves, but instead they imposed it upon other tourists, pointing out their mistaken discovery to all who passed by. I really didn't need to know where they believed Notre-Dame resided, I could see it for myself. It was the majestic creation sitting on the horizon, not the poxy little thing they were pointing at just because it was nearby. This kind of unavoidable background waffle had been
haunting me everywhere. Although some of my own country's less bearable
offspring were culprits too, I rarely encountered any other nation's
people being so annoying by talking so much drivel. An intellectual
discussion on the Metro between two French students was suddenly drowned
out by the over-excited onslaught of an American mother and daughter
at the far end of the carriage, the latter of whom was recounting an
inane telephone conversation she'd had, which the rest of us were forced
to listen to. So, eager to complete my circuit of the Eiffel Tower
viewing platforms, I stood perplexed as this rather rude woman accused
me of pushing into 'the queue', and explained that as part of a group,
it was not right for me to be taking such liberties. Upon pointing out
that I was not a member of their group - the statement of such a fact
causing waves of relief to flush through my body - her clan, which had
increased in number and was surrounding me, attacked me in unison with
the message, Clearly there had been no need for insults, and the
red mist began to build up inside me. The fact that I had walked up the tower this far - a practice that she might have horizontally benefited from herself - and that I was therefore at the summit of my experience, being barred from going any further on foot, had not dawned on her. Clearly I was expecting my reward of gazing at the spectacular panorama, and her assumption that I was queueing to take the lift, rather than just admiring the view I was entitled to, began to infuriate me. |
HOSTEL REPORT: Paris - Le d'Artagnan - see day 2 |